10 Things That Are Ruining Your Skin

by Liz Brody, Shine Staff



"As the crow flies" is usually welcome news. Except when those avian feet head straight for your face and leave their telltale tracks around the eyes. But if aging is inevitable, its pace definitely isn't. As for breakouts, dryness, and general epidermal malaise? Here's what's wrecking your skin—and how to turn it around:



1. The Kate Gosselin Effect. We're talking about overexposure—solar, in this case.(If we'd called this one "Sun," your eyes might have glazed.) From wrinkles to cancer, photoaging is "the single biggest cause of damage to the skin," declares Skin Care & Repair, a new report from Harvard Medical School.



Skin Fix: You know the drill—sunscreen that's least SPF 30 and protects against both UVA and UVB rays. (Men, don't forget behind the ears and neck). Consumer Reports' top-rated product this year is Up & Up Sport Continuous SPF 30 from Target. Most dermatologists aren't concerned about retinyl palmitate, which controversial research suggests may actually cause cancer, but if you are, Alba Botanica Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 doesn't contain the ingredient (see Environmental Working Group for others.) You can also wash your clothes with SunGuard for an extra SPF kicker.



2. Worrying About It: Stress wages chemical warfare: Pro-inflammatory neuropeptides make the skin more reactive (worsening acne and psoriasis, for example), while hormones like adrenaline constrict your blood vessels, depriving the tissue of nutrients, explains Rick Fried, MD, PhD, a dermatologist, psychologist, and clinical director of Yardley Dermatology Associates in Pennsylvania. "Long-term stress," he says, "can cause the production of cortisol, which potentially leads to thinning of the skin."



Skin Fix: Guided imagery, mindfulness meditation, hypnosis, biofeedback, exercise, yoga, and tai chi are all good ways to manage stress and help improve your complexion, says Fried.





3. Being Picky: Squeezing pimples and picking blemishes are not winning strategies for anyone. "But this is the top wrecker for brown skin," says Susan Taylor, MD, director of the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke's-Roosevelt Hospital Center. "Just about any manipulation—especially if the skin is already inflamed—will result in hyperpigmentation (discoloration), which can last months to years and is very difficult to treat."



Skin Fix: If your skin is inflamed, see a dermatologist ASAP. A steriod injection, for example, can make the problem go away quickly without leaving marks.





4. Cheating Sleep: A candle may be a girl's best friend (what lighting is more flattering?) but don't burn it at both ends. "Stress hormones are at their lowest during sleep, while the anti-inflammatory molecules are at their highest," says New York dermatologist and psychiatrist Amy Wechsler, MD, author of The Mind-Beauty Connection. "So the less you sleep, the worse for your skin."



Skin Fix: "The studies say you should get 8 hours, but it's hard," Wechsler notes. "Start by adding 30 minutes, and see if you can tell the difference."



5. Drying Out: Alcohol, cold weather, washing diligently in hot water—they can all dehydrate the skin.



Skin Fix: Jenny Kim, MD, PhD, associate professor of medicine and dermatology at ULCA's David Geffen School of Medicine, recommends using moisturizers with ceramides, but says any will do. Based on her own research which was published last year, she says, "There's no evidence that taking vitamins A and C orally will improve the skin, but in topical creams they seem to be anti-aging." The operative word, she stresses, is "seem." More research is needed. In the meantime, she says, "stick to companies that have tested their products and will show you the data."





6. Lip Balm: "Ironically, many lip balms contain phenol, which dries out your lips like nothing else," says Wechsler. "It feels good when you put it on, but soon you need more."



Skin Fix. Read the ingredient list. Carmex has phenol; Burt's Bees doesn't.





7. Tattoo Remorse: Studies suggest that about 20 percent of inked clients are unhappy with their tattoos. For those who decide to get them removed, the process is lengthy, costly, and very painful—a nightmare, says Wechsler, and the skin never really looks the same.



Skin Fix: There's a new encapsulated ink called Freedom2 that can be removed in one or two treatments as opposed to 8 or 10—much less traumatic to the skin.



8. Tanning Salons: You might as well call them "cancer booths." A University of Minnesota study published in May found that people who logged 50 hours or more in tanning booths, had up to three times the odds of developing melanoma, the deadly form of skin cancer.



Skin Fix: Get your bronze glow from self tanners—spray, lotion, gel, or wipes.





9. Combo-Creaming: A common mistake among the acne-prone is thinking: The more creams, the better. "People use 3 or 4 products at a time, and end up just drying their skin out," says Wechsler. "And that just makes them break out worse."



Skin Fix: If you can't find one over-the-counter product that works, see a professional. "Acne is not just from the oils. It's also from irritation and inflammation," Wechsler says.





10. Cigarettes: Aside from lung cancer, they cause wrinkles and are clearly associated with destroying skin elasticity. "Damage," says the Harvard report, "occurs with every cigarette smoked."



Skin Fix: There are all kinds of aids to help you quit—support groups, nicotine-replacement products, and drugs like Zyban and Chantix.





At the end of the day? Ask someone whose career depends on keeping her complexion stunningly pristine: "I'm not an expert," says 36-year-old model Kate Dillon (featured in the April issue of Vogue), "but I think you can enhance the vibrancy of your skin by drinking water, eating avocados and salmon with omega-3s, and being active." She stops for a moment, and laughs. "Good genes and a forgiving light, help too."

How to EAT your way gorgeous!

Believe it or not, chowing down on certain foods can actually be beneficial to your looks. Look no further than your own kitchen for the secrets to healthy skin,shiny hair and whiter teeth. 

Here's how:

1. Lobster: These little crustaceans are a good low-fat source of protein (key for hair & nail growth) and contain a high amount of naturally occurring zinc, which helps prevent acne. Shellfish also contains vitamin B, which helps make hair look healthier & shinier.

    Also good: Oysters and clams

2. Artichoke: It is chock full of fiber, which is detoxifying, helping the body to rid itself of waste. They also contain rutin, an antioxidant that reduces inflammation throughout the body. The result is clearer, less blotchy, and more radiant skin.

3. Strawberries: Not only are they sweet, but they are also loaded with vitamin C, another antioxidant that helps stimulate collagen production and reduces damage from free radicals, the nasty agents that cause skin to age prematurely. They also contain a malic acid, which is a natural astringent that helps remove discoloration from teeth.

    Also good: Blueberries, kiwis, and oranges

4. Sweet potatoes: They are full of fiber and vitamin A (often used as an acne and wrinkle-treating prescription topical), an antioxidant that helps keep skin clean and smooth.

    Also good: Carrots and tomatoes

5. Wild Salmon: It reduces inflammation more effectively than almost any other food and also enhances radiance and reduces wrinkles as well as puffiness.

Chow down, you doll face you.

How to keep your skin glowing all winter

  Don't let harsh, bleak winter weather leave your skin looking the same way! Make your skin glow all year long with these 3 simple steps.

Here's how: 

1. Exfoliate. While exfoliating at least twice a week is super important for fresh, glowing skin, you still must be careful when doing so. Over-scrubbing will strip your skin of its natural oils, leaving your face super dry and dull-looking. What's worse, you skin may overcompensate by producing extra oil, causing you to break out. To ensure this doesn't happen, use products with round granules rather than sharp ones that will create tiny tears in the skin. Also, make sure to scrub gently by cleansing in a circular motion starting at the jawline and working your way up.
   
 Scrubs we like: St. Ives Apricot Scrub & Origins Never a Dull Moment.


2. Moisturize. Use a heavier, age-defying moisturizer at night and a lighter one with SPF during the day Make sure to use oil-free products if you're acne-prone. And don't forget about moisturizing your neck as well! Also, make sure to dot an eye cream in the morning and at night all around the eye bone to prevent lines from forming.
   
    Nighttime moisturizers we like: Oil of Olay Positively Ageless & Neutrogena Firming Nighttime  Moisturizer 
    Daytime moisturizers we like: Neutrogena Healthy Defense Moisturizer SPF 45
    Eye creams we like: Oil of Olay Positively Ageless Eye Serum & Origins A Perfect World for Eyes


3. Bronze. Add a little color to your face with a dab of bronzer. Brush a powder bronzer/blush over cheekbones, forehead and at the tip of your nose and chin.
   
    Bronzer we like: Revlon's Beyond Natural Blush/Bronzer Duo in Peach 


(Note: Listed products are available at all major CVS and Target stores nationwide).

How to look good in pictures

     
(You don't have to be a VS Angel to take pictures like one!)

     I've been getting a lot of complaints lately from girls who feel as though they are an optical illusion of sorts: They consider themselves to be fairly good-looking in person yet for some reason completely unbeknownst to them, somehow always manage to come out looking more than just slightly awful in pictures.

     All I can say is that I completely share in your unphotogenic pain! It takes me like 139823408234 tries to take just one even halfway decent picture. Luckily, when I take them on my own camera I can review them and delete all the unflattering ones- and believe me, I've done a lot of deleting.

     The real problem lies when the pictures are on other people's cameras...I am sometimes able to inconspicuously get my hands on them and delete the bad ones without anyone finding out- that is, until I'm caught in the act and threatened with a slow and painful death. It's just that seeing a million awful pictures of me is so depressing, and now thanks to facebook- where all your ugliest pictures can now be put on display for all the world to see- even more depressing! (All I can say is thank GOD for the untag button!)

    I would argue that people are generally always better in 3D (aka real life); however, when you're at a particular event where you simply cannot get out of having your picture taken, fear not, you no longer have to worry about being an optical illusion and can come out just as beautiful on camera as you are in person.

                                                   Here's how:

1. Good posture. Standing up straight by throwing your shoulders back and sucking in your gut makes you instantly look five inches taller and five pounds thinner- never a bad thing! Also, by placing your hand on your hip, your arm will look automatically more taut and toned- also never a bad thing!

2. Make-up. The type of make-up you are wearing most definitely affects picture quality. Putting on a nude gloss will wash you out, while too bright or too matte of a shade can end up making you look like a clown. Applying a pretty plum colored gloss is flattering for everybody, as the color is vibrant without being obnoxious, and the gloss refracts the light from the flash. Also, make sure to put on powder, especially if you've been dancing and are sweaty, as you will come out looking much shinier than you actually are due to the flash.

3. Head position. Tilting your chin slightly downward and looking up at the camera with your eyes is generally a flattering angle for all women that will accentuate your eyes and smile. You can also experiment with turning your head slightly to one side while tilting your chin down in order to highlight a "good side" haha

4. Snap the pics before shooting the shots. Take pictures before drinking, as doing so afterwards may result in some sloptastic snapshots that are hilarious yet rarely hot! Also, no matter how wide you try to open your eyes or how bright the flash is, your eyes will always droop in drunken pics.

5. Have fun. Remember that pictures are simply that, and that even the hottest models take horrible pictures sometimes. In reality, it comes down to a numbers game in which the ratio of bad pictures is generally significantly higher than the good ones, making us that much more appreciative of the few and far between good ones. Either way, don't try too hard or it will show- and more importantly, have fun! After all, you can always steal your friends' cameras and delete the bad ones...


Be crazy, sexy, cool, gals. 

How to apply liquid eyeliner

     It's so hot when done right, but a hot mess when done wrong. Liquid eyeliner defines eyes for a more dramatic and longer-lasting look than regular pencil eyeliners can provide, making it a popular hit with the ladies. Now if we only knew how to use it.  What's the trick to this big girl magic marker? We'll show you.

                                                     Here's how: 


1. First pick your liquid eyeliner. We recommend choosing one that's quick-drying in order to avoid smudges and that has a pointer brush for precision that will help you draw an even line. In terms of color, brown, black and violet liquid liners generally suit every eye color and skin tone. A personal fav is L'oreal's Telescopic precision liquid eyeliner in black because of it's pointed brush, which allows for precision and line thickness control.

2. Before you start applying make sure to have some cotton balls and eye makeup remover on hand in case of any mistakes. Also, apply any foundation, powder or eyeshadow on eyelids before you apply eyeliner, as doing so after may smudge or fade the line.

3. Shake the tube.

4. When you are ready to apply, hold your eyelid down taught.

• If you're a beginner, it's not a bad idea to use pencil eyeliner first then go over it with the liquid eyeliner, which is simply a matter of re-tracing the line you already drew.
  
• For the more advanced liquid eyeliner users, start with a very thin line as close to your lashes as possible in the middle of your eyelid, and following the natural curve of your lash line, slowly work your way to the outer corner of your eye, gradually making the line thicker as you go. 
• Then go back and this time slowly work your way from the inner corner of your eye to the center where your started your first line, making the two lines connect.
  
• The line should always be thinnest at the inner corner of your eyes and thickest at the outer corners. If you need to reapply a few times until the line is as thick as you'd like it to be, that's totally ok, just make sure you don't open your freaking eye until it's dry!
  

5. Line the bottom lids only from the outer corners to the middle of the pupil with a pencil liner of the same color as opposed to liquid liner, as liquid liner will smudge on bottom lids (not to mention burn the crap out of your eyes!) due to the eye's moisture.

6. Curl lashes and apply two coats of black mascara.

And there you have it. A dramatic look perfect for a night on the town that will have people eyeing you! (Get it? Ok that was bad). Either way, you will look gorgeous darling, gorgeous!

How to do an amazing at home facial

     Why spend hundreds of your hard-earned dollars on expensive facials and creams when you don't have to look any further than your own kitchen for some of nature's finest and most effective skin products?

     My great aunts are in their 80s, have absolutely flawless skin, and have never had a professional facial in their lives! I have, however, walked into their house many times to find them sitting at the kitchen table with honey, eggs, and other random household goods all over their faces. I can laugh all I want, but whatever they're doing, it works. When my face recently started breaking out like crazy (thank you, stress!) I finally asked them to divulge their tried & true home remedies, and they were all too happy I finally came around.

     Here is a mask that is super easy to make, super easy to use, and will leave any skin type feeling ridiculously soft and refreshed.

                                                            Here's how:


1. You will need an orange, sugar, and green tea. Oranges and green tea are chock full of vitamins and anti-oxidants, which help protect our skin against free radicals- the agents such as pollution, sun, smoke, etc. which all essentially cause our skin to look like crap. Sugar is an exfoliant, which helps shed the dead top layer of skin to reveal the smoother layers underneath.

2. Cut an orange in half and pour sugar on one of the halves. Rub all over your face and neck for 5 minutes. Let mask sit for 20 minutes.

3. While you have orange and sugar all over your face, brew green tea and let it sit until it cools.

4. After the 20 minutes are up, rinse your face with the cooled green tea.

And ta-daaa! Skin that is radiant and smooth, and it didn't cost you a dime. Sweeeet.

           More amazing at home facials to come...!